Why lesbians flock to Lesbos
And why locals, once leery, now welcome them
INSPIRED BY THE erotic poetry of Sappho, who was born on the island 2,600 years ago, many languages—including English (“lesbian”), Greek (“lesvia”) and Japanese (“rezubian”)—use the demonym of her birthplace to describe sexual attraction between women. This linguistic fact has spawned a growing tourism industry in Sappho’s birth village of Eresos, in a remote corner of the island of Lesbos. Joanna Savva, a local travel agent, estimates that 3,000-4,000 gay women now visit Eresos every summer, up from under 1,000 a couple of decades ago. The village has only 1,500 full-time residents, but three lesbian bars. Hundreds of tourists attend a women’s festival every September, where activities range from political discussions to beach parties. Many visitors to Eresos keep coming back every year, and some have even stayed on to run businesses. “I immediately fell in love with the place,” says Katie Kalt, who runs a café in Eresos from May to October, but designs data-management systems in Switzerland during the winter. “I felt very accepted.”
Although locals on Lesbos are now friendly towards lesbian visitors, this was not always the case. Homophobia used to be widespread. Ten years ago, three islanders even tried to reclaim the word “lesbian”: they unsuccessfully demanded that Greek courts ban its use to describe gay women. But attitudes have since softened considerably, as lesbian tourists have filled hotels, bars and restaurants in Eresos. As Ms Savva puts it, “People here have learnt the value of the pink dollar.”
This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “Love island”
Europe December 15th 2018
- Annegret Kramp-Karrenbauer takes over the CDU leadership
- Emmanuel Macron offers protesters benefits worth €10bn
- Turkey’s president finds a new enemy: “the famous Hungarian Jew”
- Why lesbians flock to Lesbos
- Ireland’s hot property market is a sign of health
- Europe’s summiteers have little to celebrate, besides not being British
More from Europe
Ukraine’s desperate struggle to defend Kharkiv
It is holding off Russia’s attack — for now
The EU’s best-laid plans for expansion are clashing with reality
For now “phoney enlargement” is the order of the day
Turkish women should soon be allowed to keep their maiden names
But the law is still fuzzy